240sx auto to manual swap parts

And a FSM to do the work. Should be easy for mechanically inclined folks, and possibly a nightmare for mechanical-newbies or the mechanically-challenged.

I saved the electrical info on sx auto to manual tranmission swap, and am hosting it here: coming soon.. I get asked all the time about the sx transmission swap cost me?

Just take your time gathering all sx swap kit and parts. You can find quality, low mile, used stuff out there. You can use your auto ECU until you find a sx 5-speed one, but you will have cold weather start issues every once and awhile.

Just cut the auto brake pedal off by and inch on the left side. The auto pilot bearing is a pain in the ass to remove, but there is a tool made to remove it. Most aren't too bad. I suggest having at least one friend to help from the top or the bottom either holding the socket on or whatever.

Having a friend help makes this process much easier. To get to the top three bellhousing bolts you will need to remove a few small things in the way. I suggest you take some pictures of how everything is near the back of the bay so that you know exactly how things went when you get around to putting things back on. I didn't have to remove much to get to the top three bolts, but I did have to move some things in the way.

I guess it really just depends on how small you're hands are! For the top passenger side bolt: Remove the screws that secure the big hose going to the BMC along the top of the firewall.

After it's loose, pull it back and out of the way. Pop the throttle cable out of its guides and move it out of the way as needed. That's all I needed to move to get to the bolt. Drivers side Nothing too major at all. To get the top center bolt out, remove the two nuts holding the transmission to the transmission mount. Place a jack underneath the rear of the transmission and jack it up until it can't go higher Until it hits the chassis.

Doing this gave me just enough clearance to reach my arm in from the passenger side and break that elusive "top bolt".

If you use this method it really isn't that bad. It also makes getting the top driver side bolt easier as well. This piece of information is thanks to Christian! To do this, Pull off the dust plate on the bottom front of transmission.

Use a screwdriver to push the flex plate along and get to all four bolts. Once you've done this, now you can make sure the transmission is secure and remove the four bolts on the cross member. Once you remove the cross member bolts the transmission should be resting on one or two jacks. Using the jack s try to move the transmission backwards slowly and it should come right out.

You may have to give it a little wiggle. Slowly lower it down on the jack and remove any connections off the transmission that you may have forgot. Remove the torque converter and set it with the opening facing upwards so it won't leak oil everywhere. Move the transmission out from underneath your car using the jack s.

It is held on by six 19mm bolts. This is the time when an impact gun would come in handy but not quite necessary. Once all six bolts are off, wiggle and pull the flywheel and it should come right off. I will post a link or two so you can see different methods. Once I tried it like this, it came out without a problem.

But feel free to try whatever method suits you best! This isn't very difficult as you just need a drill or angle grinder and some bits. You have to make a total of three holes in order to mount these up. Nissan made it easy for us, and left the template so all you have to do is pull back the carpet and locate where the template. Picture below. Leave it plugged in, just tuck it somewhere out of the way. It comes off with one bolt, save that bolt, you will be using it to mount you're clutch bracket.

Now for the three holes. First I found a drill bit just slightly bigger than the template hole, and drilled the two outer holes. The third hole took me longer just because I didn't have the proper tool s to make that big of a hole easily. I just used my biggest bit and kept hacking at it until it was big enough. Then I used a file to smooth it out. Just mount the master cylinder up and have a friend inside car to pop on the pedal bracket. Screw on the two nuts in the engine bay for the master cylinder finger tight, then get inside the car and mount the clutch pedal bracket.

So grab the bolt you had set aside and put it in to hold the bracket up. Now make sure all bolts are tightened. You should look like this now I used an angle grinder to cut the pedal with no problem. Part A: For the reverse lights, all you do is find the row of three plugs on the back of the passenger engine bay fuse box.

Now, look at the second plug down. Part B: To make the car start, we have to trick it into thinking it is in P Park at all times. To do this, locate the plug that is underneath the row of three you were just looking at.

It is literally underneath the fuse box. Tape up the exposed wires you snipped. Once you jumper them together, secure them nicely and tape them up so the weather can't get in. Just simply plug back in the piece you just jumpered and you're officially done with the wiring. I lined up the bushing and tapped it in with a rubber mallet until it was flush with the outer lip of the crank.

I also used a socket the size of the bushing to get it in right. Just make sure not to force it in crooked, it will break pretty easily. This goes between the engine and transmission and it aligns on dowels. Make sure to double check all six bolts, you do not want a loose flywheel! Before you install the clutch break out the Brakleen brake cleaner and clean the flywheel real good.

You want a clean surface for the clutch disc to grab. Using the alignment tool mount the clutch disc on the flywheel. Mount up the clutch pressure plate and put in all the bolts. Finger tighten all of them evenly then torque in a criss cross pattern just like the flywheel bolts. It doesn't really take much. Replace the throwout bearing on your transmission with a new one. Don't skimp on the simple stuff.

You don't want to drop the transmission in a month due to a stupid bearing! Slip the old TOB off of the fork it's mounted on and then you can hammer off the old bearing from the carrier since the old bearing is garbage.

Grease the splines the TOB goes on Lithium grease works. To install the new bearing place a 2x4 over the new bearing on the carrier and hammer it on. Just make sure to put it on straight, don't bend bearing!